A Bala Cynwyd restaurant that hasn’t yet reached the one-year anniversary of its opening has caught the exacting eye (and palate) of Philadelphia Inquirer food critic Craig LaBan.

In his roundup of the area’s best dining experiences, LaBan began with a celebration of the post-COVID dining scene, writing, “…the caviar and truffles are flowing again.”

LaBan’s No. 3 for a 2022 best-of is Lark, a rooftop restaurant in Bala Cynwyd that opened in mid-Oct. 2021, barely a year ago.

It’s inclusion marks it as a new addition to his exclusive list.

After sampling his foie gras and gazing out at the seventh-floor view of glittery Manayunk, LaBan reported that he had to admit: “This lofty new addition to Bala Cynwyd is something special.”

He lauded it as not just a Main Line pleasure but something notable “…for the entire region, where few restaurants can match [Lark’s] special occasion style, warm service, and refined cooking.”

LaBan praised executive chef Michael Millon. “[His] modern Mediterranean seafood creations convey complex flavors without feeling overwrought,” LaBan characterized.

More on Lark — and LaBan’s nine other restaurant favorites for 2022 — is at The Philadelphia Inquirer.