In the 90s, everyone wanted to be thin and cool, and Abercrombie & Fitch already demonstrated those vibes through their clothes to teens around the world. In a new Netflix documentary by Philadelphia-based Alison Klayman, the clothes show only half of the breezy style it portrayed, reports Alissa Wilkinson for Vox.

It was the 90s. The malls were the epitome of all things cool, especially inside of an Abercrombie & Fitch store.

The new Netflix documentary, White Hot: The Rise & Fall of Abercrombie & Fitch, directed by Philadelphia-born Alison Klayman, takes watchers along the rise of this lifestyle brand, as well as how it came under fire for exclusion.

“I didn’t shop at Abercrombie,” she states.

“The mall near me was the King of Prussia Mall, and I once ventured in. My mom waited outside. I was kind of confused, which just shows how not cool and not the target customer I was. I think I went in to see if there was even a sale rack, and there wasn’t. It was dark. There was loud music, and I left because I was like, “I don’t feel comfortable,” Klayman remembers.

Exclusion is also a focus on Klayman’s documentary on the culture of this store, and how a brand can ultimately dictate to buyers what beauty looked like.

Read more about local director Alison Klayman’s Netflix documentary, White Hot: The Rise & Fall of Abercrombie & Fitch on Vox.

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