Philadelphia Magazine’s Foobooze restaurant writer Hanna Albertine has spotlighted “The Philly 15” in a recent issue. It’s a list of a dozen-plus-three establishments may be in their freshman years in terms of business plans, but they are already serving graduate-level dishes.

The recommendations center on new, as defined by opening within the past year. It also reflects onsite dining experienced by the Foobooze staff: No friend-of-a-friend-who-ate-there endorsements. Or Yelp-review assumptions that the fare more than fair.

Fourteen of the 15 recommendations are within the city limits; the notable outlier for Montgomery County diners is Autana in Ardmore.

Autana began as a pandemic-launched ghost kitchen in the Ardmore Station Café, creating dishes there but serving them upstairs. It is now standing deliciously on its own, confident in its authentic Venezuelan food that is reflected in menus for quick breakfasts, lunches, cheeses, and takeout.

“It’s here that you can order empanadas at the counter (made with corn and then fried until they’re matte and golden), or stop by for a sit-down dinner,” reported Albertine.

“The sweet twists of mandocas or the massive patacon with shredded beef lodged between two smashed-then-fried plantains warrant a trip,” the recommendation concluded.

The city’s 14 other recommended restaurants — as well as full contact information on Autana — are at Philadelphia Magazine.